Repairing Damaged Planking

 I recently moved Ka'nu's port hull up to nearer the house so I could use power tools to sand the decks,  hull and old antifouling below the waterline. I made sure she sat level & the weight was evenly supported.  I had problems at her previous location as strong autumn winds blew her canvas cover or ike a balloon & capsized her,  twice. Apart from being a pain to right her,  the risk of holing or damaging the hull had bothered me. 

So, this time I took the wheels off her cradle to give her a lower centre of gravity & surer footing. 

Board the port hull & messing about below opened my eyes to how narrow the Tiki 21 is. The widest part of the hulls is actually quite a way forward from the hatch, but there is no hatch there for comfort. 

I noticed properly for the first time,  the the onboard  section of the deck drought by the hatch,  had been repaired.  There is timber on the outer face for the job sheet block, a perfect situation to gather cruis and fresh water.  The repair feels rough. It looks strong enough,  but I do not want to trust that at sea.  It would actually be all right,  but I would fell better getting the job done to its best potential. 



I researched online to find HOW TO REPAIR PLYWOOD DAMAGE.

1. Mark out the damaged section. Small enough to exclude all the damage, & with straight edges.  To avoid damaging stringers or frames,  make small drill holes from the inside too identify their location. 

2. Cut the section out using a circular saw out jigsaw.  

Any ply & glue on the frames or stringers can be removed by hand,  or grinder. 

3. Bevel the edges 8:1 as shown in the drawing above. 

4. Mix mayonnaise thickness epoxy, lather the faces& set into position using clamps or screws to hold firmly in place. 

5. Sand to a smooth finish,  prime & paint. 


Easy! When the rain stops (two record floods north of Sydney, twice this year), I'll  get going with the repair & post some results here.

 


 

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