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Showing posts from November, 2023

new flippers

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I had hoped to get a new surf mat but they're not in vogie anymore. I settled for some new flippers, or fons, that I have just christened on all surf at One M ile Beach. The waves were hard to crack, but the fins helped &_being on the water was a blast. This tam beach is popular with tourists & learning surfers,_so it has a relaxed, dorky & cosmopolitan vibe  But I kind of enjoy the chill, fin feeling Jere when compared to chic uptight cloyong/claustrophobic  of my old local break.  Yesterday i had a bad tumble. At the risk of sounding like an old crony, ... O wasowing up a steep bank beside my"driveway" when my old boots lost their tempus grip on the planet. For a few milliseconds o did the cartoon thing of running fast and going nowhere, then the weight of the mower, its wheels were skidding too, came back at me. and I lost it. I recall rolling saodeways & backwards onto a very rocky surface & shitting myself over. breaking  bones. I copped a few ñce